Aperture Priority Assignment (A)
For this next assignment, we will move from full auto mode to aperture priority mode in order to control the Depth of Field (DoF). In this mode you will see more control over your DSLR and will be able to select a shallow or large DoF depending on what you would like your final outcome to be.
Your task is to pick 3 objects from the class and place them in a line moving away from your lens (see image to left). Position your camera so that you are level with your 3 objects and that can see all 3 objects. Keep your subjects off to either side of the frame - you may need to use a tripod to get the right height or if you have room; sit the camera on the same surface as your objects.
What's Required:
Your task is to pick 3 objects from the class and place them in a line moving away from your lens (see image to left). Position your camera so that you are level with your 3 objects and that can see all 3 objects. Keep your subjects off to either side of the frame - you may need to use a tripod to get the right height or if you have room; sit the camera on the same surface as your objects.
What's Required:
- Compose 3 shots (same objects in each) that have 3 items. Focus on front, middle and end objects separately
- Be creative!
- Frame your subject accordingly
- Your partner must shoot their objects on a different background
Getting Started with your camera
Steps I use to get started are:
- choose ISO first
- decide on the depth of field you would like to start off with
- set my aperture for the results I want
- check for warnings and slow shutter speeds
- review image and correct as necessary
See the difference the size of the Aperture plays in blurring the background.
Things to consider...
I choose Aperture Mode when I want to control depth of field (DoF) as my top priority. Such as to create shallow DoF for a portrait, people photos, or any time you want a blurred background (choose a large aperture like f2.8 or f1.8). That also applies if I want a larger DoF as well such as for a landscape photo, group portraits, or shots where I want maximum detail and sharpness (choose a smaller aperture like f11 or smaller)
ISO: remember that when you select either A or S mode you are still choosing the ISO
We usually select my ISO first, based on the lighting conditions I’m shooting in. If it’s bright sunlight I go to 100 or 200. If it’s subdued light, shade or overcast I might bump it up to 400. For indoors or dimly lit rooms I may go to 800 or higher up to 3200 if necessary (you need to test to know the upper limits of your ISO and where you’re comfortable shooting with your camera, mine will yield pretty decent results even at 6400 and beyond). How I know I’ve gone high enough with the ISO, is if I have a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate camera shake when hand holding. If your on a tripod, we're usually shooting a ISO 100 or 200 because I can use any shutter speed safely.
Check your shutter speed when in A mode
Just because the camera is picking the shutter speed does not mean it will give you a nice sharp image. Yes it will choose a shutter speed to give you the correct exposure, but if you set up your camera for ISO 100 at f16 in dark room you’ll wind up with a pretty slow shutter speed like 1/2 of a second perhaps, and without a tripod you’ll get blur from camera shake. So keep your eye on the shutter speed the camera is picking and if it is too slow re-adjust the ISO, the aperture or both – picking a higher ISO will help, so will choosing a larger aperture like f4 as that will let the camera pick a faster corresponding shutter speed.
Watch for exposure warning notices in A or S modes
Your camera is pretty smart but it can only work within its own limitations. So it will tell you if you’ve gone outside that boundaries of what it can adjust for you. This will show up as a flashing warning in your viewfinder. I’ll give you an example for both Aperture and Shutter modes.
ISO: remember that when you select either A or S mode you are still choosing the ISO
We usually select my ISO first, based on the lighting conditions I’m shooting in. If it’s bright sunlight I go to 100 or 200. If it’s subdued light, shade or overcast I might bump it up to 400. For indoors or dimly lit rooms I may go to 800 or higher up to 3200 if necessary (you need to test to know the upper limits of your ISO and where you’re comfortable shooting with your camera, mine will yield pretty decent results even at 6400 and beyond). How I know I’ve gone high enough with the ISO, is if I have a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate camera shake when hand holding. If your on a tripod, we're usually shooting a ISO 100 or 200 because I can use any shutter speed safely.
Check your shutter speed when in A mode
Just because the camera is picking the shutter speed does not mean it will give you a nice sharp image. Yes it will choose a shutter speed to give you the correct exposure, but if you set up your camera for ISO 100 at f16 in dark room you’ll wind up with a pretty slow shutter speed like 1/2 of a second perhaps, and without a tripod you’ll get blur from camera shake. So keep your eye on the shutter speed the camera is picking and if it is too slow re-adjust the ISO, the aperture or both – picking a higher ISO will help, so will choosing a larger aperture like f4 as that will let the camera pick a faster corresponding shutter speed.
Watch for exposure warning notices in A or S modes
Your camera is pretty smart but it can only work within its own limitations. So it will tell you if you’ve gone outside that boundaries of what it can adjust for you. This will show up as a flashing warning in your viewfinder. I’ll give you an example for both Aperture and Shutter modes.
Rubric
