Shutter Priority - (B)
Shutter Priority mode gives us more freedom to control certain aspects of our photography. In this case, we are talking about shutter speed. The selected shutter speed determines just how long you expose your camera's sensor to light. The longer it remains open, the more time your sensor has to gather light. The shutter speed also, to a large degree, determines how sharp your photographs are. This is different from the image being sharply in focus. Two of the major influences on the sharpness of an image are camera shake and the subject's movement. Because a slower shutter speed means that light from your subject is hitting the sensor for a longer period of time, any movement by you or your subject will show up in your photos as blur.
Your task is to take 2 pictures of your partner throwing up a tennis ball. One picture will have blur motion and the other will have stop motion. When doing your blur motion shot; make sure you take the photo when the ball is either on its way up or on its way down - do not take it when the ball is at it's highest point because there will be the least amount of movement and your effect won't be as visual as you would like.
For your second set of shots will be of a pan action shot. This will need to be taken out in the hallway and for best results against a set of lockers. You will have your model walk quickly with the lockers in the background as you pan and take your shot. One shot will have a slow shutter speed to blur motion while the other will be fast to stop the motion. The desired result will have your model in focus and the background blurred out of focus for your blur shot and everything in focus for your stop action shot.
What's Required:
Your task is to take 2 pictures of your partner throwing up a tennis ball. One picture will have blur motion and the other will have stop motion. When doing your blur motion shot; make sure you take the photo when the ball is either on its way up or on its way down - do not take it when the ball is at it's highest point because there will be the least amount of movement and your effect won't be as visual as you would like.
For your second set of shots will be of a pan action shot. This will need to be taken out in the hallway and for best results against a set of lockers. You will have your model walk quickly with the lockers in the background as you pan and take your shot. One shot will have a slow shutter speed to blur motion while the other will be fast to stop the motion. The desired result will have your model in focus and the background blurred out of focus for your blur shot and everything in focus for your stop action shot.
What's Required:
- 1 blurred motion shot of the tennis ball
- 1 stop action shot of the tennis ball
- 1 pan shot of a car- Slow shutter speed
- choose ISO first
- decide on the amount of blur you would like to start off with
- set my shutter speed for the results I want
- check for warnings and low/high light levels - shoot
- review image and correct as necessary
Things to Consider
I choose Aperture Mode when I want to control depth of field (DoF) as my top priority. Such as to create shallow DoF for a portrait, people photos, or any time I want a blurred background (choose a large aperture like f2.8 or f1.8). That also applies if I want a larger DoF as well such as for a landscape photo, group portraits, or shots where I want maximum detail and sharpness (choose a smaller aperture like f11 or smaller)
ISO: remember that when you select either A or S mode you are still choosing the ISO
I usually select my ISO first, based on the lighting conditions I’m shooting in. If it’s bright sunlight I go to 100 or 200. If it’s subdued light, shade or overcast I might bump it up to 400. For indoors or dimly lit rooms I may go to 800 or higher up to 3200 if necessary (you need to test to know the upper limits of your ISO and where you’re comfortable shooting with your camera, mine will yield pretty decent results even at 6400 and beyond). How I know I’ve gone high enough with the ISO, is if I have a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate camera shake when hand holding. If I’m on a tripod, I’m usually shooting a ISO 100 or 200 because I can use any shutter speed safely.
Watch for exposure warning notices in A or S modes
Your camera is pretty smart but it can only work within its own limitations. So it will tell you if you’ve gone outside that boundaries of what it can adjust for you. This will show up as a flashing warning in your viewfinder. I’ll give you an example for both Aperture and Shutter modes.
ISO: remember that when you select either A or S mode you are still choosing the ISO
I usually select my ISO first, based on the lighting conditions I’m shooting in. If it’s bright sunlight I go to 100 or 200. If it’s subdued light, shade or overcast I might bump it up to 400. For indoors or dimly lit rooms I may go to 800 or higher up to 3200 if necessary (you need to test to know the upper limits of your ISO and where you’re comfortable shooting with your camera, mine will yield pretty decent results even at 6400 and beyond). How I know I’ve gone high enough with the ISO, is if I have a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate camera shake when hand holding. If I’m on a tripod, I’m usually shooting a ISO 100 or 200 because I can use any shutter speed safely.
Watch for exposure warning notices in A or S modes
Your camera is pretty smart but it can only work within its own limitations. So it will tell you if you’ve gone outside that boundaries of what it can adjust for you. This will show up as a flashing warning in your viewfinder. I’ll give you an example for both Aperture and Shutter modes.